Arunachal Pradesh. The name literally translates to the ‘land of the dawn-lit mountains’. And it truly lives up to its name.
Being India’s easternmost state, Arunachal is the first place in the country to greet the sunlight. So, as early as 4 am in summer, the region is lit up, urging weary travellers to waste no time in exploring the land.
Of course, in the few days we spend here, we don’t get to see the sun rise thanks to a thick, misty cloud cover. But there’s still plenty of light to guide us, ensuring we get a fairly bright and early start to each day.
When in Arunachal, an early start is recommended for there’s a lot to soak in, especially if you are a nature lover. Like its northeastern counterparts, the Eastern Himalayan state is blessed with abundant natural beauty.
Every turn brings a new surprise, every lark coos wondrous whispers. Every lake seems to share a deep story, and every waterfall flows with so much joy. In short, every moment spent in the lap of nature offers a new perspective.
Like its northeastern counterparts, Arunachal Pradesh is blessed with abundant natural beauty. In pic: Tawang Chu river
Natural wonders and other marvels
While Tawang Valley seems to be on everyone’s itinerary, it’s a bit challenging to reach the place as it involves a long road trip, traversing difficult mountainous terrain.
Situated at a height of about 10,000 feet, Tawang is bounded by Tibet to the north, Bhutan to the southwest, and the Sela ranges to the east. The drive from Guwahati, where the nearest big airport is, to Tawang takes about 12 hours.
We stop at Bomdila, in West Kameng district, for rest and respite, before continuing our journey via Dirang, Sela Pass, and Jang.
Even though the recently-opened Sela Tunnel has trimmed the distance between Dirang and Tawang by around 12 km, the journey still takes time. However, what makes the long ride worthwhile are the sights along the way.
Located near Sela Pass, at an elevation of 13,650 feet, Sela Lake is surrounded by breathtaking mountains. Image: Shutterstock
” align=”center”> Located near Sela Pass, at an elevation of 13,650 feet, Sela Lake is surrounded by breathtaking mountains. Image: Shutterstock 
An impressive spot in the scenic route is Sela Lake, also known as Paradise Lake. From a distance, we cannot make much of it, but a short walk downhill takes us to … as the name suggests … paradise on earth.
Here’s where time comes to a standstill as we take in the breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains. We are lucky to have the place all to ourselves, at least for half an hour, before tourists start trickling in.
Located near Sela Pass, one of the highest motorable mountain passes in the world, at an elevation of 13,650 feet, the lake is often frozen during winter. Even in summer, Sela is extremely cold, prompting us to grab our thickest jackets and mufflers.
As we near Tawang, we stop by at Nuranang or Jang Falls, about 2 kilometres northeast of the town of Jang. Although we are exhausted, in hindsight, we’re glad we didn’t skip the falls.
Gushing from a formidable height of 100 metres, Nuranang is a real beauty! It’s named after Nura, a local Monpa tribal girl, who—along with her sister Sela—helped the Indian Army’s rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat with food and ammunition during the 1962 Indo-China War.
When we eventually reach Tawang, weariness gives way to wonder at the sight of majestic mountain peaks, sparkling streams, and verdant valleys. But if these are not enough to impress, the flowers in bloom do the rest.
Nuranang or Jang Falls, about 2 kilometres northeast of the town of Jang. gushes from a formidable height of 100 metres, Image: Shutterstock
Walking along the streets of this remote town, it’s hard not to admire the houses decked with rows of potted plants filled with flowers in every possible hue.
“It’s like a competition, with people trying to outdo each other; even the men take their plants seriously,” chuckles Norbu, our driver-cum-guide.
While in Tawang, it’s worth exploring Chakzam Bridge, an iron-chain suspension bridge built in late 14th century by Buddhist saint and engineer Drupthop Thangton Gyalpo across the Tawang Chu river. This ancient structure, which endured artillery shelling during the 1962 war, stands as a symbol of exemplary engineering during the medieval Monpa period.
“Villagers still use the bridge to cross the river. For heavy loads, they use the adjacent bridge,” says Norbu, pointing to a more modern structure nearby.
About an hour’s drive from Tawang is Chakzam Bridge, an ancient iron suspension bridge reinforced with bamboo.
About 35 km from Tawang is Sangestar Lake, formed from a flash flood following an earthquake in 1973. A striking feature here are the dead tree trunks which still stand submerged in the middle of the calm waters.
Here’s a fun fact. A song featuring Shahrukh Khan and Madhuri Dixit from the Hindi movie Koyla was filmed here. Thereafter, the lake came to be known as ‘Madhuri Lake’.
Although it appears a tad touristy at the outset, as we venture deep into the forested area around the lake, the crowd thins out, and we encounter lovely surprises along the way—gurgling brooks, enticing pathways, pine trees, and wild flowers.
A song featuring Shahrukh Khan and Madhuri Dixit from the Hindi movie Koyla was filmed at Sangestar Lake, popularly known as ‘Madhuri Lake’.
Monasteries and more
It’s not all nature in Arunachal Pradesh. Nestled amidst the picture-perfect environs are monasteries with stunning architecture, Thangka paintings, and wall murals depicting the Buddhist heritage of the region, including the eight auspicious symbols of Buddhism.
The widespread influence of the faith can be felt across the state, particularly in Tawang, where Buddhist flags and prayer wheels are ubiquitous, adorning houses, farms, mountain passes, and waterbodies.
A gigantic Buddha statue in Tawang; Image: Shutterstock
The most prominent monastery is the Tawang Monastery (Galden Namgyal Lhatse), said to be the largest in the country. Situated in the valley of Tawang Chu, it’s a major centre for Buddhist studies in India, following the Mahayana tradition of Buddhism. This is where the 14th Dalai Lama took refuge for a few days, after escaping from Tibet in 1959.
The huge monastery complex houses residential quarters and a school for monks too. There’s also a museum showcasing sacred texts; monks’ footprints; tribal attire, masks, and artefacts; and photographs featuring visits by famous personalities, including Jawaharlal Nehru and Indira Gandhi.
During our halt in Bomdila, we visit Bomdila Monastery—a serene sanctuary for observation and contemplation. We watch the senior monks in serious conversation, while little monks in maroon robes run around in joyous spirits.
Another beautiful monastery in Arunachal is Thupsung Dhargye Ling, perched on a hill. This well-maintained and aesthetically pleasing monastery in Dirang is a highly recommended stop enroute to Tawang for its panoramic views of the Dirang Valley.
The vibrant green valley is popular for apple orchards, trekking, birdwatching, and its proximity to Sangti Valley, which houses a large sheep farm.
Thupsung Dhargye Ling is a well-maintained monastery in Dirang. Image: Shutterstock
Diverse people, diverse languages
It’s the people who make a place. In that sense, Arunachal is a true melting pot, comprising 26 major tribes and over 100 sub-tribes. The major tribes include Adi, Apatani, Nyishi, Tagin, Khampti, Monpa, Sherdukpen, and Singpho, each contributing distinctively to the cultural tapestry of the region.
Concentrated in the high-altitude districts of Tawang and West Kameng are the Monpas, who are deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhism. They are warm, welcoming, and always sporting a smile.
The Monpas are said to be hard-working, breeding yak and cattle and cultivating potatoes, the staple crop of the region. They are also skilled in Thangka painting, wood-carving, and mask-making.
Infographic: Nihar Apte
Apart from its diverse composition, the state is also known for its linguistic diversity, with each tribe speaking a different indigenous language.
Tenzin, who drives us from Bomdila to Tawang, remarks, “There is hardly any commonality. We are all Arunachalis, but we cannot understand each other’s language. So, we speak to people of other tribes in Hindi.”
The best places to observe people in action are the markets. Particularly fascinating is the Ama Market in Bomdila, a small shopping complex managed exclusively by women. ‘Ama’ means ‘woman’ or ‘mother’ in the Monpa language.
The Ama Market in Bomdila is a small shopping complex managed exclusively by women.
“After our husbands go out to work, we quickly finish cooking, and come here to make some extra money,” says Sonam Pema, who has been selling at Ama Market for about 12 years.
At the market, we find handwoven bags, aluminium ladles, and local produce such as pulses, vegetables, fruits, and varieties of cheese.
Chhurpi is a type of cheese made from cow or yak milk, widely consumed in the Himalayan region. Known for its earthy taste and smoky flavour, the naturally fermented cheese can be hard or soft. Soft chhurpi is added to gravies and curries, while the churkam variant, said to be the hardest cheese in the world, is chewed as a snack (if you dare to!).
Chequered history
No mention of Arunachal Pradesh is complete without referring to its troubled past, marked by territorial disputes with China, including the war of 1962.
The state pays tribute to its heroes through thoughtfully constructed war memorials.
One of the important historical sites is Jaswant Garh War Memorial in Nuranang—which has preserved military bunkers and artefacts. It honours Maha Vir Chakra recipient, rifleman Jaswant Singh Rawat, who valiantly stood against the Chinese forces, holding post for 72 hours before being martyred.
Even today, Indian soldiers continue to stand guard at Bum La Pass on the Indo-China border at an altitude of over 15,000 feet, braving bitter cold and unpredictable weather. A visit to Bum La leaves us with overwhelming respect and admiration for the brave hearts of Bharat.
These are the kind of transformative experiences that make Arunachal a truly unique destination, combining natural vistas with history and heritage.
Feature image: Tawang Monastery, the largest Buddhist monastery in India
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